You are in the right ballpark, but in the wrong section and way over thinking it. if I left my lights on and drained the starting battery down to dead what might be a time frame on charging the starting battery like this? It is a good battery AGM Diehard Since the isolator needs 12v to make the connection between front and rear batteries then I need to run a small 12 AGW from the rear battery bank to a small toggle switch that when flipped turns on the isolator and makes the connection between the two battery banks.Īnd. Some can do it, but poorly at best.OK then, so I take it the smart way to do this instead of installing an expensive battery switch with large wire and actually bypassing the isolator would be to add a small toggle switch that controls the isolator? Keep in mind a Deep Cycle battery is not made to crank an engine. What you can do is bypass the Isolator and have the House battery charge the SLI battery. There is no wire large enough to carry 12 volts any distance. You cannot remotely set a battery away from the engine. There is a reason SLI batteries are installed in the engine compartment close to the engine with large wires. This will only work if the starting battery is dead because it was discharged too far rather than because it has failed chemically or mechanically. The current would then come mostly from the partially recharged starting battery.
Heavy duty battery isolator relay full#
Instead of counting on the house battery to deliver the full current to the starter, a more practical solution would be to close the switch and let the house battery charge the starting battery for a few minutes and then try to start the engine. It will be difficult and expensive to run a wire that size through the vehicle, but fortunately you do not have to do that. Plugging in the numbers to figure 20 feet of wire (one way, since we hope that the ground connection through the frame will be good enough to give a low voltage drop) and 200A and a voltage drop of 4V, we get a required size of #3/0 copper. If you can estimate the current drain of the starter motor and the length of the wire you can use tables or calculators to determine the needed wire size. To get significant help in supplying starting current though, you would need to keep the voltage drop on the wire down to 4V or less.
is this even doable? What would the AWG of the line running to the rear battery bank have to be to account for a short burst of many amps for 1 second? It's a long line like 15 feet.For the short time of a couple of seconds you can overload a wire significantly beyond its normal carrying capacity, since it will take some time to heat it up to the point where the insulation will be damaged.
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